Friday, September 27, 2013

Yazidi Pilgrimage in Lalish

We stopped at a market along the way.  The watermelon here is delicious!
Two hours on the bus and we were at Lalish, a sacred place for the Yazidi in a small mountain valley. Yazidis are a religious group who represent an ancient religion.  The religion blends elements of ancient nature-worship and influences from Christianity, Gnosticism, Zoroastrianism, Islam and Judaism. The Yazidi believe in God as creator of the world, which he placed under the care of seven holy beings with the Peacock Angel as the chief. Yazidis currently live in Iraq, Syria and Turkey and make at least one pilgrimage to Lalişh during their lifetime. During the celebration, Yazidi bathe in the river, wash figures of Tawûsê Melek and light hundreds of lamps in the tombs of Şêx Adî and other saints. Some also believe Noah’s Ark came to rest here.
 
Upon entering Lalish, we were required to remove our shoes, a pilgrimage custom.  We walked around all day without shoes!

 





























The focal point of Lalish is the Sanctuary, a temple topped by two large pyramids. 

The entrance is guarded by a stone relief of a black snake slithering into a hole in the wall, which some believe symbolizes a snake that used his body to plug a leak in Noah’s Ark. You can see the bottom of the snake to the right of the entrance.



looking back toward the courtyard after entering the sanctuary.
 
These were found throughout the sanctuary.

 
 
 
The interior of the temple contains several tombs. The tombs and walls are wrapped in colorful silks and visitors tie and untie knots to make a wish.






 
Pilgrims circle a tomb three times counterclockwise (not sure if there is any significance to the direction), untie three scarves making wishes and tie three new knots.
That's me!

A hanging oil lamp




 After walking through the Sanctuary through many small rooms, we came upon a very small room with a tomb in the back where visitors respectfully walked up two steps to the tomb, kissed the tomb and retraced their two steps.



 A Yazidi man explained that some pilgrims bring a silk scarf from a friend, stand in a certain place in the sanctuary, close their eyes and throw the silk scarf toward the taller tomb three times.  If it lands on the tomb and stays there, the chances of getting married soon are very good for the person throwing the scarf.

Beautiful light
Love the patina on this door


Ceiling in one of the sanctuary rooms

Children ran up to us all day!
climbing up the terraces
Kurdish security

Looking down toward the sanctuary

near a courtyard
Not sure what this is called ~ delicious!
Our picnic spot overlooking one of the courtyards.
Small Kurdish boy dressed in traditional clothing.
 Look at that pose!
... smoking.
Grandmother, Father & bassinet with baby.

Giggling girls.
cotton candy

These girls asked me to take their photo.
A lovely day!





Thursday, September 19, 2013

Trip to the Qaysari Bazaar



The sights and sounds of the bazaar near the citadel were filled with authenticity.  Here I am standing near the base of the citadel (the historic city center continuously inhabited since the 5th millennium BC, and possibly earlier).  Many little souks (shops) used to be outside at the base of the citadel but they were forced to move to one of the newer structures nearby or the old structure when citadel renovations began a couple of years ago.  







Our first stop was a rug souk.  Rugs are one of the few handcrafted items made by the local people here.  They are beautiful woolen rugs and many have geometric patterns.   Shoulder bags and bags with small tassels are also made locally.  This souk also sold prayer rugs and traditional white shoes.


Next door was a souk with beautiful instruments.  They also sold prayer rugs and the bags with tassels.










Then, it was off to the old bazaar!  We entered through one of the many alleys surrounding the bazaar.  It was hot and the alleys were filled with many people.  Once inside, we walked through a maze of narrow paths between the shops, underneath a roof of corrugated metal. Most alleys are arranged by the type of product sold on that alley.  It is filled with little shops of everyday items and a place where the locals shop.  It was nice to experience what the locals do on an ordinary weekend.






The floor was uneven and there was construction going on near the jewelry souks making it really loud and very dusty. We had walk over a plank covering a large hole to enter some of the shops.   Later, there was a large stream of water going through the middle of the bazaar. 





Many men proudly wear traditional Kurdish clothing and this man posed for us. His daughter is next to him.  I picked up some glasses in the shop behind him.

A kind man who spoke English took us to a naan bakery and bought us a pack of ten straight from the oven!  Naan is a flat bread that the Kurdish people eat daily for most meals.  We picked up some roasted chicken in one restaurant that was wrapped in several pieces of nan and came with a side of pickled veggies.  It was 10,000 dinar or about $8 and very heavy. 
Pomegranate Seeds! 

Tikka & Kabab
Dates & Figs